Cod and Cauliflower Chowder
A creamy New England fish chowder of leeks, celery, thyme, and tender cauliflower, thickened with puréed cauliflower and filled with big chunks of cod.
Why you'll love Cod and Cauliflower Chowder
Chowder is what New England eats when the wind comes off the water in January, and this one keeps everything that makes it good: a buttery base of onion, leek, and celery, thyme and bay, whole milk and a little cream, and thick chunks of cod that break into big, tender flakes in the spoon. Small florets of cauliflower take the place of potatoes and soften into the broth the way potatoes do.
The body of the chowder comes from the cauliflower itself. Part of it simmers until very soft, then goes into the blender with the milk and turns into a smooth, velvety purée that thickens the whole pot, so the soup turns creamy and spoonable on cauliflower alone. The rest of the florets stay whole for texture.
The cod goes in last, into a pot that barely bubbles. Fish this delicate needs only five or six minutes of gentle heat, and keeping it below a boil is what keeps the chunks whole and moist. A bowl is a full lunch, with protein, a real fat, and a vegetable in every spoonful.
Quick overview: This Cod and Cauliflower Chowder takes 20 min of hands-on time and about 1 hr in all and makes 4 servings, each about 2 cups. You'll need a pot and a blender.
Ingredients
- 2 tbsp butter
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 1 leek, white and light green parts, halved lengthwise, rinsed, and thinly sliced
- 2 ribs celery, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 medium head cauliflower (about 1 1/2 lb), cut into 1/2-inch florets
- 3 cups chicken broth Label: chicken, water, vegetables, herbs, and salt, with no sugar, natural flavors, or oil
- 1 tsp fine sea salt, divided
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1/2 cup heavy cream Label: cream, with no gums or carrageenan
- 1 1/2 lb skinless cod fillets, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
- 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- a pinch of sweet paprika, to finish
- 2 tbsp chopped parsley
Instructions
- Soften the aromatics: Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, leek, and celery and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and translucent with no browning. Cooking them gently draws out their sweetness and keeps the chowder pale and creamy. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute, until fragrant.
- Simmer the cauliflower: Add the thyme, bay leaf, cauliflower, broth, and 3/4 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, partly covered, for 12 to 15 minutes, until the cauliflower is very tender and a floret crushes easily against the side of the pot.
- Blend the base: Pull out the thyme stems and bay leaf. Ladle about 2 cups of the cauliflower with a little of its broth into a blender, add the milk, and blend until completely smooth, about 1 minute. Hold the lid down with a folded towel and start on low, since hot liquid expands in a blender. Pour the purée back into the pot and stir. Puréed cauliflower thickens the chowder the way a roux or potato starch would, with a clean, sweet flavor.
- Add the cream: Stir in the cream and bring the chowder back to a bare simmer over medium-low heat, with only a few bubbles breaking the surface. Milk and cream stay smooth at a gentle simmer and can separate at a hard boil.
- Poach the cod: Season the cod with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and slide the chunks into the pot. Keep the heat low and poach for 5 to 6 minutes, without stirring, until the fish is opaque all the way through, flakes easily, and reaches 145°F (63°C). Gently push the pieces under once halfway through rather than stirring, so they stay in large chunks.
- Finish and serve: Taste for salt and add the pepper. Ladle into warm bowls and finish each with a pinch of sweet paprika and the parsley.
Storage and leftovers
Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container within 2 hours of cooking, for up to 2 days. The fish is at its best the day the chowder is made.
Reheat gently in a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring carefully, just until hot, so the cod stays tender and the milk stays smooth. The finished chowder does not freeze well, since the cream and fish change texture, but the cauliflower base, made through the blending step, freezes for up to 3 months; thaw it in the refrigerator, add the cream, and poach fresh cod in it.
Variations
- Haddock or halibut: Use haddock, pollock, or halibut in place of the cod, keeping the same poaching time for chunks the same size.
- Seafood chowder: Use 1 lb of cod and 1/2 lb of peeled raw shrimp, adding the shrimp for the last 3 minutes, until pink and opaque.
- Celery root: Use 1/2 lb of diced celery root in place of a third of the cauliflower for a deeper, earthier flavor.
- Herb finish: Stir 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh dill and the finely grated zest of half a lemon into the pot just before serving.
Notes and tips
- Rinse the leek well: Grit hides between the layers. Slice the leek first, swish the slices in a bowl of cold water, and lift them out so the sand stays at the bottom.
- Cut the florets small: Half-inch florets cook evenly and fit on a spoon with a piece of fish. Larger pieces take longer and crowd the bowl.
- Thicker or thinner: For a thicker chowder, blend an extra cup of the cauliflower. For a thinner one, add a splash more milk.
- Check the broth label: It should read chicken, water, vegetables, herbs, and salt, with no sugar or natural flavors.
Nutrition and mindful eating
- Cod is a mild white fish that brings protein along with selenium, vitamin B12, and iodine, and gentle poaching keeps it moist.
- Cauliflower does double duty, giving the chowder its creamy body when puréed and its texture when left whole, along with vitamin C, folate, and fiber.
- Butter, whole milk, and cream are the real fat in the bowl. With the fish they slow how quickly lunch leaves your stomach, so a creamy soup holds you like a full meal.
- Leek, onion, celery, thyme, and bay build deep flavor slowly, so the chowder needs only a modest amount of salt.
- As you eat, notice the warmth of the bowl and the tender flakes of cod, and check in through the afternoon: a full bowl should keep you satisfied at least 3 to 4 hours, with your energy steady until dinner.
Frequently asked questions
Have a question about this Cod and Cauliflower Chowder? Start here, with the questions people ask most.
Can I use frozen cod?
Yes. Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator, or in its sealed package in a bowl of cold water for about an hour, and pat it dry before cutting it into chunks.
Why cauliflower in place of potatoes?
Potatoes are a starchy vegetable, and cauliflower does the same two jobs in a chowder: small florets soften into tender pieces, and puréed florets thicken the broth until it is creamy.
Can I make it ahead?
Make the base through the blending step up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate it. When you are ready to eat, bring it to a bare simmer, stir in the cream, and poach the cod.
Can I make it dairy-free?
Use olive oil in place of the butter and full-fat canned coconut milk, with a label of coconut and water, in place of the milk and cream. It tastes faintly of coconut and stays just as creamy.
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